A Mouse in the House
The patter of tiny feet is not always what you want to hear, especially if it means that you have mice in your house. However, before you call the professionals there are steps that you can take yourself to try and control the problem.
Mice are extremely well-adapted to get into buildings; as well as being able to squeeze through tiny holes in damaged brick and woodwork, they can also climb, jump, swim and run along wires.
Once inside a house, they are most likely to build their nests either close to a source of food (behind a fridge, in the carcass of a kitchen cupboard or underneath a cooker for example), or somewhere that offers warmth such as in an airing cupboard or loft insulation.
The most conclusive evidence of mouse infestation is to actually see one, but as they are nocturnal you are more likely to hear them: they are most active at dusk and daybreak. Other things to look for are droppings (these are black and the size of a grain of rice), holes gnawed in skirting boards, chewed food packaging, musky smells and dirty smudge marks left behind by fur.
Mice have an excellent sense of smell, so if you don't want the aroma of food to tempt them into your house you must not leave food out for any length of time. Any food spillages or crumbs should be cleared away immediately, floors cleaned regularly and frequent checks made under cookers and fridges for stray food. Glass jars are ideal mouse-proof containers for loose food, as cardboard and plastic can be gnawed through. Rubbish should be bagged and put into a bin with a secure lid. Anything that can be used for nesting, such as tissue, cotton wool or newspaper, should also be put where mice cannot get to it.
Seal any holes in brickwork with stainless steel wire wool, fix wire mesh to airbricks and vents, fit brush strips to the bottom of doors if you have a gap there and remove any vegetation that might be used for climbing. Check woodwork for rot and replace if unsound.
Once you have proofed your house against mice, you need to deal with those already inside. The traditional options are to put down poison or use a trap that will, hopefully, kill the mouse instantly. If uncomfortable with the idea of killing, you may prefer to use live capture mouse traps. If so, you need to release the captured mice several miles away from your property or they will just come straight back. If you are not able to completely clear the infestation, or if the mice come back, then professional help should be sought.
As well as causing damage to houses, mice can spread a number of diseases: Salmonella and Lyme disease being just two. And although they may not eat vast quantities of food, anything that they touch becomes unfit for human consumption.
Mice are extremely well-adapted to get into buildings; as well as being able to squeeze through tiny holes in damaged brick and woodwork, they can also climb, jump, swim and run along wires.
Once inside a house, they are most likely to build their nests either close to a source of food (behind a fridge, in the carcass of a kitchen cupboard or underneath a cooker for example), or somewhere that offers warmth such as in an airing cupboard or loft insulation.
The most conclusive evidence of mouse infestation is to actually see one, but as they are nocturnal you are more likely to hear them: they are most active at dusk and daybreak. Other things to look for are droppings (these are black and the size of a grain of rice), holes gnawed in skirting boards, chewed food packaging, musky smells and dirty smudge marks left behind by fur.
Mice have an excellent sense of smell, so if you don't want the aroma of food to tempt them into your house you must not leave food out for any length of time. Any food spillages or crumbs should be cleared away immediately, floors cleaned regularly and frequent checks made under cookers and fridges for stray food. Glass jars are ideal mouse-proof containers for loose food, as cardboard and plastic can be gnawed through. Rubbish should be bagged and put into a bin with a secure lid. Anything that can be used for nesting, such as tissue, cotton wool or newspaper, should also be put where mice cannot get to it.
Seal any holes in brickwork with stainless steel wire wool, fix wire mesh to airbricks and vents, fit brush strips to the bottom of doors if you have a gap there and remove any vegetation that might be used for climbing. Check woodwork for rot and replace if unsound.
Once you have proofed your house against mice, you need to deal with those already inside. The traditional options are to put down poison or use a trap that will, hopefully, kill the mouse instantly. If uncomfortable with the idea of killing, you may prefer to use live capture mouse traps. If so, you need to release the captured mice several miles away from your property or they will just come straight back. If you are not able to completely clear the infestation, or if the mice come back, then professional help should be sought.
As well as causing damage to houses, mice can spread a number of diseases: Salmonella and Lyme disease being just two. And although they may not eat vast quantities of food, anything that they touch becomes unfit for human consumption.
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New Unique Article!
Title: A Mouse in the House
Author: George Frank
Email: dirasu.678269.0@articlesamurai.com
Keywords: mice,pests,home-care,home
Word Count: 489
Category: Home & Family
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